This is a write-up for installing the Damond Motorsports Oil Catch Can, which will be available for Alfa Romeo Giulia 2.0 in the coming weeks. I ordered the universal kit, but Damond said afterwards that they have the Giulia kit, but it’s just not on the site yet. Only di9fference is there are OE connectors for the hoses, and the bracket is bent for proper fitment. These instructions will work for most if not all catch cans.
NOTE: It has been determined by a few people that the PCV (intake side) is the only system that needs a catch can. The “exhaust manifold side” breather does not need to have a catch can based on tests reporting that there is nearly zero oil vapor being caught. The PCV side definitely needs help as you can see in the photo below showing the oil in the OEM hose.
Remove the two small covers at the front of the engine cover using the pick.
Use the 10mm socket with extension to remove the two bolts. Remove them if possible.
Pop the cover up at each corner being careful that the bolts do not go flying if you were unable to get the bolts out of the cover.
Remove OE breather hose from the connector(s) (green arrows)
While pressing the gray rectangular release button, pull and twist. They should both pop off easily. If they are not coming off, you may not be pressing the button hard enough.
Connect the hoses to the catch can
Top hose is the catch can output that goes to the intake connector (lower one). This hose is 9.5" long, not including the connector. If you need to cut the hose yourself, I suggest cutting it 1/4" longer (9.75") than recommended by Damond Motorsports. This is only due to my experience of installing it.
Bottom hose goes to the PCV connection on the top of the engine. It is 14" and could also use another 1/4" in length (14.25")
Don’t forget to install the hose clamps on to the hose prior to connecting them to the catch can and connectors. I opted to use the spring style hose clamps as mentioned above, due to the more OEM look it presents. Either style of clamps are fine. If you opt for the spring style, do NOT over stretch them when installing on the hoses. Only open them up enough to just barely get them in place. Use a medium size channel lock pliers on the 2nd or 3rd channels to help prevent that from occurring.
Mount the catch can
Remove the front upper ECM bolt as this is what we will use to mount the bracket. There is a ground connection on that bolt. Make sure that it doesn’t fall off and get forgotten, unless you like troubleshooting errors.
Remove this hose connector (vacuum line?) by squeezing the buttons on opposing sides, twist and pull, and move it out of the way.
Pull the wiring harness up to make room for installing the bracket below it. Careful not to drop the nut or it’s time to remove the under tray and do an oil change, only because you are already half-way there.
Install the bracket on to the ECM stud first, then attach the catch can to the bracket using the locations as seen in this photo. Do not completely tighten the bolt and nut.
Move the catch can around to make sure it clears the alternator and then do the final tightening.
TIP: I ended up using a 1" combination wrench to bend the right side of the bracket upwards a bit. This puts a twist in the bracket leg that attaches to the ECM stud. The added height gives a little more clearance between the the catch can and the alternator. (Twist not illustrated in this photo)
Connect the breather hoses to the engine
Before connecting either hose, route the line we removed earlier in step 4, second bullet item (vacuum line?), in between the engine and the two breather hoses and reconnect. This seemed like the best placement, but YMMV.
Connect the hoses to their respective connectors on the engine. You may need to twist the connectors in the hoses to get the proper orientation.
Verify that the routing of the hoses is correct.
Reinstall engine cover, if possible. I don’t use mine, so I’m not sure if the hose gets in the way or not.
@WoodmanMN , I contacted Damond Motorsport about the hose size OD so I could buy some better hose clamps to use with their kit instead of the typical awful screw style. Damond responded that they have a Giulia specific kit that just hasn’t made it to the web store yet. It adds the OE connectors, 90° elbow, and a proper bracket. I’m having those shipped out.
Once I get the parts and time I’ll finish this article up and publish it.
I contacted Damond after reading this and they’re sending me out a Giulia kit as well. So glad you posted this before I ordered a universal kit! I went with the red hoses!
Catch can arrived a couple days ago and I finally got around to installing it this afternoon. Everything looked good and overall I’m very happy with the product.
My only gripe is the precut hose to the Intake Manifold is too short. Installed the way FizzGiGG did his install, it works fine but it’s too short to be able to get the side cover back on. My options are to either A) leave it as is, B) Notch the side cover to clear the existing hoses or C) order a longer run of hose and run it around the side cover.
I don’t want to leave it as is because that side cover is not only sound insulation (there is considerably more noise now with the hood popped) but it also has various clamps to secure wiring and hoses in place. I’ll probably go with option C and just try to run a longer hose around that cover.
There are no clearance issues with the top engine cover, so that’s nice.
For those considering this modification, do it! My PCV hose had a not-insignificant amount of oil inside it. Keep in mind this hose is AFTER the factory oil separator and feeds almost straight down into the Intake Manifold. So oil is most definitely making it’s way into the intake manifold and building up on the intake valves.
Here’s the side cover I’m refering to:
Here’s a few pics of the install. I couldn’t get the camera to focus on the hose with the cover installed but you can make out that it clears the top cover.
I just left that side cover and the top engine cover off. I don’t care about the noise, I care more about the heat dissipation.
After roughly 1,000 miles of driving since I installed the catch, can, I just did an oil change and emptied out the can. There was close to a half ounce of liquid that I drained out.
It’s a nice install, the only issue is the right angle bracket. Let me know how you go about it.
I run that Android perf app that shows oil degradation and oil level and all of that. I’m curious to see how much of the “lost oil” ends up in the can.
So I did the install. It’s very simple and straightforward, but man the hoses are tight. I’m going to leave feedback and suggest giving like another inch of length. The shorter hose that goes down into the intake barely reached. Also that hose is pushing against a connector as well.
I found removing the air box gives easy access to the bracket for mounting.
Hi Jesse,. Great thread. In one of your images I see a non-stock hose connected to the coolant reservoir. Did you connect that hose to the original hose end connector, or is that a replacement part, as well? If so, where did you source it? Part number? TIA.
AlfaAndy
Yep, that’s a 5/16" fuel line, and I did re-use the OEM hose barbs. Also used fuel line clamps as they are a much nicer clamp than the typical screw type.
I was wondering when someone will source a replacement hose barb connector (Dorman?) that will connect to our bottles so that we can replace all of it with easily obtainable and better quality parts. I saw on a thread on the giuliaforums where someone sourced a GM hose (part# 13251447) that supposedly has the correct push-on connector to our bottles. Unfortunately the hose to connector connection looks like some sort of weird molded clamp connector gizmo. I’d guess that somewhere someone has a bare connector for sale that we could use to attach a common hose and clamp (like you did) . Please LMK if you find one. AlfaAndy
I searched pretty well for replacement quick connects, but there are none out there that are the proper orientation. I contacted the company that makes the ends for the Giulia, and they told me to pound sand and go through the vehicle manufacturer to get the parts. I don’t remember who that was.
Does this mod is necessary to avoid a blocking failure ?
Does this mod just reduces the probability to encounter a blocking failure?
Does this mod, on most cases, just improves performances?
It’s a question to better understand the effective benefit of such mod, and if is it essential.
It definitely prevents oil vapor from being circulated back through the intake, which would normally start to cause carbon buildup on the intake valves. Also filtering out that vapor helps with preventing pre-detonation during high loads.
